Hunt for good nyonya kuih in Melaka – Yummy Garden Food Court, Jalan Ujong Pasir & Malay Kuih – Perhentian Kuih Kampong

After my previous post (read HERE –> What to eat in Melaka – Baba Charlie) some argued that Baba Charlie is too commercialized and overrated.
Well, I’m all for constructive feedback so thank you to those who said so. πŸ™‚
This then bought me to my question; surely there are other masters of nyonya kuih making in this heritage rich albeit getting-too-commercial for my taste city? As it is I’m having difficulty getting good, authentic Nyonya cuisine here so pray tell me that delectable nyonya kuih is not a fast disappearing art too?

nyonya kuih good in melaka - Sg ujong food court-001

I used to make nyonya kuih back in Penang with a friend so I can attest that it’s painstaking work. Just like baking, skimping on ingredients is a no-no.
But unlike baking, mixing the ingredients are usually done by hand and the cooking method is steaming using traditional old steamers, not high tech ovens with exact temperature control.

Kuih short on rich coconut milk (if the recipe requires it) and overloaded with sugar wouldn’t attain the perfect texture and taste.
Another notable attribute of a good nyonya kuih is the colours.
Colours should be clean and naturally bright (not the radioactive bright colourings so fond by makers of Malay kuihs), usually derived from natural sources like plants. If colourings are used, the shade should be vibrant but not overly fake.
Lastly, aesthetics are cardinal. The kuih must be in uniformed sizes with clean sides (no jagged ends, torn sides) as the Chinese would usually not buy the kuih if any is broken or misshapen.
Lastly each piece or slice should be firm, slightly wobbly but not not so soft that it won’t hold itself up.

I know. It’s a tall order. Almost as if everything must be perfect.
But hey, we are on the topic of seeking the best/nicest tasting kuih aren’t we?

malay nyonya kuih in melaka - Perhentian kuih kampong-009

On one of the recent trips I asked my trustworthy Malaccan friend where he would get his fix of Nyonya kuih and he recommended this stall at Yummy Food Court at Jalan Ujong Pasir. In fact it is HIS MUM’s favourite stall so that says a lot.

nyonya kuih in melaka - chinese - Sg ujong

The thing about Baba Charlie is they are open almost the whole day and you can get a whole lot of variety in ONE place. Here, the kuih is a hundred times tastier and prettier; very well made and reasonably priced, but it is only open from 5pm onwards and the variety offered are about 10-15 or so.
It comes in packs of 4 pieces, and you can’t opt to buy less. Β πŸ™

nyonya kuih in melaka - chinese - Sg ujong-003

So for the sake of sampling I bought some anyways. Besides, just by looking at them I could tell that they would be good! Yes the colours, the moistness, the texture and the shape does hint of its taste.
And I was right. Everything I sampled (as seen below) were great!

nyonya kuih good in melaka - Sg ujong food court-001

The ang koo was marvelous; fine bean paste and soft, thin chewy skin.

nyonya kuih good in melaka - Sg ujong food court

TheirΒ Chwee Kueh was good too.

nyonya kuih good in melaka - Sg ujong food court-005

Would I recommend this stall at the Yummy Food Court for your nyonya kuih fix? Yes I would!

nyonya kuih in melaka - chinese - Sg ujong-001

I have heard of another good nyonya kuih proprietor whose name is Bibik Ong. She sells her nyonya kuih from her lone stall outside of Hilir Garden Ice Cafe at the junction of Jalan Low Hee Kong and Jalan Ujong Pasir.

Her operational hours are 3-5pm and unfortunately for me I missed out from visiting her on my previous trip. Well, next trip then! πŸ™‚

Apparently there is also a popular Malay kuih outlet in Melaka.
This is Perhentian Kuih Kampong also on Jalan Sungai Ujong. The myriad of kuih on offer is crazy!

malay nyonya kuih in melaka - Perhentian kuih kampong

However upon close inspection I realized that there are all more or less similar items; perhaps just prepared in different colours.

malay nyonya kuih in melaka - Perhentian kuih kampong-005

malay nyonya kuih in melaka - Perhentian kuih kampong-004

malay nyonya kuih in melaka - Perhentian kuih kampong-003

malay nyonya kuih in melaka - Perhentian kuih kampong-002

Of course, the different colours was intended to represent different flavours – yellow for potato, purple for yam, green for pandan and brown for gula melaka or brown sugar.
But frankly one can barely taste the difference, and most of them came across to me as a glob of soft dough and sugar.

malay nyonya kuih in melaka - Perhentian kuih kampong-007

Remember what I said about Chinese kuih being pretty, uniformly cut and firm? The opposite can be said for MOST (I can’t say all for sure) Malay versions. Sloppy, too soft, too hard, some parts uncooked, overly sweet and overly greasy.

malay nyonya kuih in melaka - Perhentian kuih kampong-008

malay nyonya kuih in melaka - Perhentian kuih kampong-010

It’s obviously catered for the Malay/Muslim market (hey I’m not being racist here but just stating a fact) with some occasional customers of other races.
I’m sure it has its share of fans, considering that they sell so many types and large quantity of kuih each day while being in business for years. It’s just doesn’t whet my appetite and I won’t return voluntarily.
I do like Malay kuih and I eat them all the time; buying from the roadside stalls in the morning and indulging in them come every Ramadan. But the ones here at Perhentian Kuih Lampung just doesn’t cut it.

nyonya kuih good in melaka - Sg ujong food court-003

I was staying at Casa del Rio Melaka during this trip. You can check out my previous review –> HERE. This trip is actually my 2nd stay. It’s such a gorgeous place. If you’re ever in Melaka, do stay here! πŸ™‚

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My friend is a wine-oholic. Having said that, sweet/dessert wines did paired pretty well with our local kuih!

nyonya kuih good in melaka - Sg ujong food court-004

1. Hong Kong Chee Cheong Fun/Nyonya Kuih stall
Yummy Garden Food Court, Jalan Ujong Pasir
Batu Berendam, 75050

2. (Perhentian Kuih Kampung)
Address: Lot 130, Jalan Ujong Pasir, 75050 Melaka, Malaysia.
Opening Hours: 1700 – 2200 Daily

Perhentian Kuih Kampung is alike a food court as well. Other than kuih, one can feast on roti, rice, fried noodles and the works. It was even on TV3 Jalan-Jalan Cari Makan. Go figure. πŸ˜€

malay nyonya kuih in melaka - Perhentian kuih kampong-006

malay nyonya kuih in melaka - Perhentian kuih kampong-001

I’ll be heading to Melaka again soon and I’ll definitely be on the hunt for Bibik Ong. Meanwhile for a list of my Melaka Eats (not a top/best list or anything, just a list of food I’ve tried) you can view it here –> Melaka: what I ate! πŸ™‚

This Post Has 18 Comments

  1. ourfernie.com

    Very good information. Lucky me I came across
    your website by chance (stumbleupon). I have book marked it for
    more! πŸ™‚

  2. Anne

    i like to learn more and more and I have always found your posts to be most informative and interesting. Keep it up beckY!

  3. Constance Ant

    latest update: this stall at Yummy Food Court no longer sell chwee kuih. πŸ™

    1. Rebecca Saw

      darn.
      Well I’m not a huge fan of chwee kueh so I won’t miss it much. But i love the ang koo here!

  4. Alphonso

    I used to be recommended this website by means of my cousin.
    I am now not positive whether or not this post is written via him as nobody else I know are so attuned to such attributes of nyonya kuih! You’re incredible! Thanks!

    1. Rebecca Saw

      Err ok. Thanks for the kind words. I have to meet your cousin soon!:P

  5. ooo, maybe these kuih are sometimes best made in small batches by nyonya homemakers… but i guess the art is slowly eroding in favor of mass production? anyway, the angkoo looks great, i love how it’s so generously stuffed πŸ˜€

    1. Rebecca Saw

      Yeah! And the paste is so refined and light but could taste the mung bean!
      Nyonya kuih makers are a rare breed now. It takes years to perfect the art .

  6. Tanya

    I love nyonya kuih too! in KL I’ll always go to SS2 to see my favourite uncle in the morning market.

  7. Amber

    Such detailed description of the perfect nyonya kuih. You’re such a perfectionist!

  8. Penny

    You’re in Melaka again right? Saw your Instagram updates!
    So you found a new kuih place?

  9. Susan

    Read both this post and Bibik’s. If I can only go to one, where would it be? πŸ™‚

  10. George

    Noted on Bibik Ong (as per your Instagram) and Yummy Food Court!

  11. Stephan

    Everyone goes to Baba Charlie. It’s good that a blogger like u took the initiative to seek other (not to mention BETTER) alternatives.
    Thanks for the write up on Bibik. I had thought hers was much better too

  12. Cassie

    Good find! I’ll let my mum to know of this stall. Like I said we usually buy from Bibik only.

  13. Heather

    I agree with you. the Malay kuih are never as fine or delicately made.

  14. Veron

    Yes, here and all the nyonya food and the Bibik Ong, just bring me along for your next trip

  15. Shaun

    Hi there just wanted to give you a quick heads up and let you know a few of the images aren’t
    loading properly. I’m not sure why but I think its a linking issue.
    I’ve tried it in two different browsers and both show the
    same results.

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